The spring design requires the filament to be somewhat flexible and elastic. Design files are linked below for anyone who wants to adjust the spring thickness / tolerances. PolyMax isn't quite elastic enough for this spring, but Colorfabb PLA/PHA (which is more flexible than normal PLA) seems to work well. A new version is available, this one should works better with the more brittle plastics.

-- Eustathios

-- OnShape

Filaments: (full list can be found on
-- Colorfabb Blue Grey PLA/PHA
-- Polymaker PolyMax White

(filament donated by PrintedSolid)

Tick Twister

The Tick twister has been updated to Tick Twister V2, with a slightly smaller, user friendly design

As we’re in for an inundation of ticks this summer, we here at CEL have designed this handy tick twister. So if you find a Tick on yourself, a family member or a beloved pet, you no longer have to put up with a tacky supermarket tick remover or wait days for amazon shipping. Just print this handy Tick twister and get it out asap!


Recommended settings;
Resolution: Normal or Fine
Infill: 20% – 40%
Material: ABS

It is very important that the first layer is printed at 0.1mm (100micon) or less.

Removing a Tick can be a tricky business, there are a few rules that need to be followed to prevent infection as advised by BADA UK;

The tick’s body must not be compressed, as this can force out saliva and gut contents which may contain disease-causing organisms.
The tick should not be irritated or injured, as this may result in it regurgitating (vomiting) saliva and gut contents along with any disease-causing organisms.
The mouth parts of the tick should be cleanly removed along with the rest of its body.
The tick should be removed without causing the host discomfort.
When removing the Tick, wear rubber or plastic gloves.

How to use the Tick twister;

Engage the tool by approaching the tick from the side (the body of the tick is flat when unfed) until it is held securely.
Lift the tool very lightly and TURN IT (clockwise or counter-clockwise). The tick detaches itself after 2-3 rotations.
After removing the tick, disinfect the bite site and wash hands with soap and water.
You may want to save the tick for identification in case the person or animal the tick was attached to becomes ill within several weeks. To save the tick, write the date of the bite in pencil on a piece of paper and put it with the tick in a sealed plastic bag and store it in a freezer. Your doctor / vet can then identify that a tick bite has occurred and use this information to assist in making an accurate diagnosis.

Survival Bracelet

Lost in the wilderness? A few feet of paracord for making a bow drill fire set or for a thread to fish with might save you. This bracelet gives you 7 feet of paracord right on your wrist. Both styles of buckle are remixes of designs used for nylon webbing. The paracord is available in many colors from Home Depot for about $3 for 50 feet. The total cost to make a survival bracelet is less than $1 per bracelet. Whether you are new or old to 3D printing, this is a fun and useful project which you can complete in less than an hour.

Update: I've included a design for a side latch buckle. Now there are two styles of buckle to choose from. Be sure to use supports for side latch buckle female prints.

Once you print the male and female buckles, space them at about 7.5 - 8 inches apart at the openings and follow the photos for weaving the paracord. IMPORTANT: Be sure that each successive knot alternates which side goes under the two main cords. You must alternate back and forth otherwise the bracelet will have a twist in it. When you finish the final knot, trim the cords and lightly melt the ends with a lighter to keep them in place.

ALSO IMPORTANT: For the side latch buckle, print the female part with internal supports otherwise the print will fail. After printing, knock out the supports with a small screwdriver and cleanup excess plastic with an Xacto knife.

Print Settings

Printer brand:



Prusa i3










Be sure to use 100% infill to make the buckle sturdy. I used PLA but ABS would last longer. I didn't have to do any post processing to get the buckle to operate. All clearances seem to be good.

Extruder 200C
Bed 60C on Kapton

IMPORTANT: For the side latch buckle, print the female part with internal supports otherwise it won't print well. After printing, knock out the supports with a small screwdriver and cleanup excess plastic with an Xacto knife.

Watering Can - 4 Sizes, Succulents, Cacti, Greenhouse

Spring (or was it winter?) is coming and I needed some stylish and easy to print watering cans for indoor (bonsai, succulents, cacti ...) and outdoor (greenhouse ...) use. This one comes in 4 flavors: 125 (5"), 155 (6"), 170 (6.7"), and 185 mm (7.3") height.

  • I print mine using this cheap, strong, and easy to print Carbon Fiber PLA , which looks great and is very durable. However, PETG or ABS will also work.
  • This should be an extremely simple print. Print at 0.2 mm resolution and 40+% infill. Designed so you won't need any supports. Test to make sure your print is waterproof before use.
  • I use some cheap, clear epoxy resin (approx. US $5) to make my prints 100% waterproof: Epoxy Resin. Apply with a long brush or simply rinse the inside of the watering can.


A-FRAME Bird feeder

A-FRAME bird house/feeder, with drainage holes.

Follow @perroncorriveau

Santorini Succulent Planter (w/ drains that fill pool!)

Please note the usage rights for this design, and contact me if you are interested in printing this design and selling it. As a student I love the idea of my design being accessible, and wont ask for any payment, I only request that some of the profit be given to charity, and that you acknowledge the original creators. Otherwise you are taking away from the charities that are currently benefiting from other sales.

If you want to just print it for yourself or to give away as a gift, then be my guest!

Update V5: I raised the pond wall by 50% to allow for a bit more drainage, and raised the archway as well to make it fit aesthetically. I toyed around with making the pool wider or even taller, but it all looked really off past this point. haven't test printed this yet but it should work.

V4 ~~NEW DESIGN! The regular STL now has higher resolution so the pool is a more perfect semi-circle. The v4 version has been FINALLY edited to print using only 60% of the filament vs the original, and around 85% of the print time. Better yet, I have some recs to get the print time well under 20 hours! See the notes below for that! The new speedy/budget design doesn't have fancy plumbing and nice looking drains, but will look the same once full. The pots are deeper, and the bottom is slanted, so it will still provide drainage, and will still drain into the pool! The only downside is that the pots are deeper, which may not be ideal for all succulents, as the soil won’t dry as quickly. Still should work well with a loose planting mixture good drainage, and is well suited to printing at a smaller size!

This is a modification of the original planter 2 pot (designed by rk295): I added drainage holes, plumbing that leads down to the bottom, and an archway over the drain that leads into an added pool on the bottom level. yes the drains actually fill the pool (rather quickly, i might add.. oops!)

I was able to print it with no supports -- the only areas that didnt turn out perfectly was the very top of the arch, which sanded down nicely (not pictured), and the drain under the arch, which i just smoothed a bit with razor (also not pictured).

Print Settings

Printer brand:


Ender 3 Pro









Filament brand:

Filament color:


Filament material:



~~Faster print edit: For a MUCH faster print time (under 17 hrs), set layer height to 0.32 mm, set infill to 15%, use the gyroid infill option for added strength. Better yet, I hear if you use a .6mm nozzle you can print in under 12 hours!!!

Printed on an ender3pro with Inland PLA+, 210c, 60 bed temp, 40mm/sec print speed, 0.2mm resolution (probably would have turned out better with 0.1 or less), and probably should have used support for the 0* angles. 20% infill, 4 wall and floor/roof layers. took around 28 hours lol.

drains work perfect though, and I'm happy with the appearance, so no regrets.

I'd recommend PETG for extended durability if this is going in the sun, or especially outdoors.

Classic Bird Feeder

Classic style bird feeder. 100% printed, prints with no support needed. Hold several cups of bird feed.

This design is very easy to refill. Just lift the roof and poor in more feed.

How I Designed This

Design 123D

Sliding Door bolt Print fully assembled

Make sure to check out for add-ons for this thing. This includes alternative fixings and spacers for the main bolt and standard receiver.

Update 6 July 2020.
I've added a sliding bolt release tool. Print 100% infill.
Place part with hole on a solid surface, put bolt in bolt shaped recess in this part then put other part with protrusion over back of bolt and tap with a small hammer to release.
I hope this makes sense, just let me know if this works for you.
It should get the bolt moving and is safer than trying to find random items and causing injury,

I've added a fully assembled door bolt to print.
either complete or just the bolt itself.

I've included a reduced contact sliding bar version to help with prints that seem to be fused together, please let me know if this helps.

Supports not required unless using the no support versions.

I've added two versions with improved support for the ball handle, the previous ones the ball appears to be distorted but not unusable.

If anyone prints these two with improved ball support, can you let me know if this fixes the problem, my printer is out of action for the next week or so.

Print at least 3 perimeters and at least 27% infill or higher.

I would recommend using a raft not a brim.

Don't scale the assembled one down as the tolerances would be too close.

If your printer is like mine, the parts seem slightly stuck together when printed, then you should still be able to free it up.
I just put the front (the end furthest from the bolt pin) across the jaws of an open vice, so the path of the bolt is free to slide, then tap the back end of the bolt bar with a hammer, I used an M8 bolt to drive the bar into the body. Then just work back and forth a few times, and it should free up.

I've added replacement body and receiver with countersunk screw holes.
These are...
"sliding bolt receiver_csk.stl"
"sliding bolt body_csk.stl"

This is the sliding door bolt I made for my shed door.

The one in the picture is made from PLA, although ABS would probably be a better choice for outdoors.

I would probably recommend that the parts be made with at least 50% infill.

Assembly should be quite simple. first make sure the slot in the main body will allow the
sliding bolt shaft to slide freely and also check the shaft fits into the blind hole in the sliding bar.

I put a couple of drops of superglue in the hole in the bar, slotted the bar into the main body, lined the hole up with the slot and push the pin into place firmly.
Be careful not to get glue on the outside of the bar!

Please note that the sliding bar is deliberately over long to allow for expansion and contraction of the wood on my shed.

The inside of the main body may require a little cleanup after printing. I used a small wood chisel to clean out the top corners and a little filing around the slot.

I've added a picture of one of a couple I made 65% of original size, so I can say it works perfectly scaled down too.